Indiana Jones and the Well-Worn Tourist Route

With Penny descending two cenotes of note (see www.apennyforthem.com) I had a whole day to myself on the proviso I didn’t get lost.

Chichen Itza is the most important Mayan site in Yucatan. We knew it was a couple of hours from Cancun, but only having one day in the Benidorm of Mexico thought we wouldn’t have chance to visit. A helpful roadsign in Tulum, however, revealed that it was within easy reach by bus from our second base.

I arrived at lunchtime, and was slightly concerned about the cruise ship coach parties I’d find looking for the gift shop and ignoring the ruins. There were about 12 chartered executive guided coaches outside.

I didn’t really need to worry. Although busy, the park was plenty big enough to allow me to explore and take in the sites without being too hemmed in by Americans comparing the size of the pyramid unfavourably with the best Vegas has to offer.

Walking up the track from the entrance, your breath is taken away as the central pyramid is revealed through the trees. Truly one of the missed wonders of the world.

I spent several hours wandering the site initially in a bit of daze, but as I relaxed and began to take it in I could see virtually every surface intricately carved with serpents and jaguars, noblemen and sacrifice. As soon as my eyes relaxed the full wonder of the place opened out, big-nosed gods and all. It’s a genuinely magnificent city, almost too perfectly proportioned and well laid out: I had to remind myself this was real and over 1000 years old in places, not Disney’s Mayaland (sadly no actors in Mayan dress performing the Ritual Sacrifice Musical at 11am, 2pm and 5pm daily, though there is a sound and light show every evening).

The central pyramid is rivalled only by the massive ball stadium. No-one quite knows the rules, it changed through the years from football to involving bats or using your hips. What is known is that it involved getting a ball through a stone hoop high in the wall. First goal wins and the losing team is sacrificed to the gods. I might start watching the FA Cup if they did that.

I left at 3pm, before realising I’d missed a whole section and heading straight back in. Although templed-out I was glad I did: some of the best preserved and most intricate and exciting carvings adorned the vast buildings I’d missed.

I can’t do it justice, so wait for the photos when I get back! A little taster is below.

I’m writing this in the city of Chetumal, a short hop to the Belize border and a long bus ride direct to Tikal in Guatemala at 5am tomorrow. Chetumal seems pleasant enough, but not hugely exciting. Like Milton Keynes. It’s the biggest city in the region, nice to live in, but you wouldn’t really plan to go there if you weren’t passin through. We’ve passed the time sorting a major banking crisis that could’ve left us without cash (but didn’t) and sitting in a nice bar/restaurant opposite the hotel drinking cheap beer and blogging via ludicrous roaming charges.

Roll on the Guatemalan jungle, the most exciting ruins since Maccu Picchu and a brand new country tomorrow. Thank god I’ve got my adventure hat.